Free Pretty Pumpkin Tablecloth For Fall Decorating

Hey, Primmies, here is another project for you. Since the weekend The tablecloth was made with black wool felt pumpkins, but of course, you can use any color or even small  prints for your pumpkins. I have seen a lot of bloggers making black and also white pumpkins so I thought you'd like black and white version.I also found a stenciled Pumpkin Rug to make. Use a plain jute rug, the straw-colored rectangular type, and use pumpkin stencils and Krylon spray paint in really cool colors beyond the regular orange and green Halloween colors. I'll do that post separately since these are so long to read.Download the template Tablecloth Templates

• 2/3-yard of 36-inch-wide black wool felt 
• 1 yard of 24-inch-wide, iron-on fusible web (such as Lite Steam-A-Seam)
• Freezer paper
• Pencil and scissors
• Iron
• 1-1/2 yards of 42-inch-wide ivory cotton print
• 3 yards (2 packages) of black jumb rickrack
• Sewing machine and thread
• Embroidery needle
• Embroidery floss: ivory
• 1 yard of 20-inch-wide, lightweight, tear-away fabric stabilizer (such as Sulky Tear-Easy Stablizer)
• Teflon applique pressing sheet
• Fabric marker       
• How To Make The Tablecloth                                                                                                                                                                   1. Download and print the free pattern2. Following the manufacturer's instructions, apply fusible web to the back of the black wool felt. Do not remove the paper backing.3. Trace the shaded areas of the pattern (corner details and pumpkins) onto freezer paper and cut out. (The freezer paper shapes will serve as a template 4. Using an iron, press each freezer paper shape, shiny side down, onto the felt. Cut out the shapes along the pattern edges. Peel off the freezer paper.5. To make the tablecloth cut two 34-1/2-inch squares from the ivory cotton print. Cut four 26-inch lengths of rickrack.6. Place one print square, right side up, on a flat work surface. Pin a length of rickrack along one edge of the print square, making sure to slope the rickrack off the fabric at each end so the rickrack won't overlap at the corners. Note: The corners of the tablecloth will not lie flat if the rickrack overlaps.7. Repeat for the remaining sides. Baste the rickrack in place.8. Using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, sew the print squares together with the right sides facing, leaving a 7-inch opening on one side for turning. Turn right side out and press. Whipstitch the opening closed.9. Position a piece of stabilizer over the pumpkin pattern and trace the pumpkin pattern, including the stitch-line guides. Repeat to make a total of four stem-and-vine stitching templates.10. Applique the tablecloth. Place a pumpkin-stitching template onto the right side of a pumpkin felt cutout, aligning all edges. Using the templates as a guide, outline the pumpkins and stems with running stitches. Note: Use three strands of floss for all stitching. Carefully remove the stabilizer by placing your thumb on the stitches and pulling the stabilizer away from your thumb. Repeat for each pumpkin.11. Outline the ornate corners with running stitches 1/4 inch from all edges.12. Arrange the cutouts on the tablecloth, removing the paper backing as you work; hand-press the cutouts into place. To avoid scorching, place a Teflon applique pressing sheet over each cutout. Fuse all cutouts into place with an iron.13. Arrange the stem-and-vine stitching template over a pumpkin stem. Use a fabric marker to trace the vines onto the fabric. Note: When tracing, apply mild pressure with the fabric marker so that the ink will slightly seep through the stabilizer onto the fabric. Repeat for all vines.14. Lay the tablecloth on a flat surface and position a piece of stabilizer under a vine area to be stitched. Use a small zigzag stitch or satin stitch to machine-sew the vine outline. Repeat for all vines and then remove the stabilizer.
• copyright BHG 2011 Meredith Corp All Rights Reserved

More Caramel and Apples

While I've still got Caramel Apples on my mind (re: my post on Faux Caramel Apples was to prevent me from eating sweets!) I had to have this Caramel Apple Cheesecake. I know, my resolve to watch my sugar intake just totally disappeared. I only had one slice and that's it, I promise. Mr. Glen Oaks wouldn't bake this unless I promised. But all of you don't have to suffer, here's the recipe in all it's glory. I,m going for a walk (ugh).

Caramel Apple Cheesecake             

Ingredients

1-½ cups graham cracker crumbs

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup butter, melted

2 - 8-ounce packages cream cheese, softened

1 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon apple-pie spice

1 16-ounce can or jar (1-2/3 cups) applesauce

2 tablespoons lemon juice

5 eggs

½ cup whipping cream

½ cup sugar

1 tablespoon butter

1/3 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Directions

1. For crust, combine crumbs and 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir in butter, toss gently. Press onto bottom and 1 inch up sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Bake in 375 degree F oven about 10 minutes or until edges begin to brown. Cool slightly on a wire rack.

2. Meanwhile, for filling, combine cream cheese, 1 cup sugar, cinnamon, and apple-pie spice. Beat until fluffy. Beat in applesauce and lemon juice. Beat in eggs until combined.

3. Pour filling into crust-lined pan. Bake on a shallow baking pan in a 375 degree F oven 40 to 45 minutes or until center is nearly set. Cool on a wire rack 15 minutes. Loosen sides of pan. Cool 30 minutes more; remove sides. Cool completely.

Chill at least 4 or up to 24 hours.

4. For sauce, in a small heavy saucepan melt 1/2 cup sugar over medium-high heat until sugar begins to melt, shaking pan often. (Do not stir.) Reduce heat; cook about 5 miutes more or until sugar is melted and golden. Stir as necessary after sugar begins to melt (only when mixture bubbles). Remove from heat. Carefully pour in 1/2 cup whipping cream. Add 1 tablespoon butter. Return to heat; cook and stir for 1 to 2 minutes more or until smooth. Stir in 1/3 cup coarsely chopped pecans. Cool. Cover and chill up to 24 hours. To serve, cut cheesecake into wedges; top with sauce. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

nutrition facts

Calories443 Total Fat (g)27 Saturated Fat (g)15, Cholesterol (mg)157, Sodium (mg)251, Carbohydrate (g)46, Fiber (g)1, Protein (g)7, Vitamin A (DV%)29, Calcium (DV%)5, Iron (DV%)10, Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet Carbohydrate (g)46, Fiber (g)1, Protein (g)7, Vitamin A (DV%)29,Calcium (DV%)5, Iron (DV%)10, Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet 
BetterHomesandGardens copyright 2011MeredithCorp.,All Rights Reserved

Fabric Pumpkin Tutorial By Lynne for The Primitive Pantry

THE PRIMITIVE PANTRY

FABRIC PUMPKIN SEWING TUTORIAL 
Stuffing
Strong Quilting Thread or Upholstery Thread
Darning or Upholstery Needle
Garden Twine or String or Embroidery Thread
Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
Strong Cotton or quilting cotton
Cinnamon Stick Or Other Sticks/stalk


Start with A4 size of fabric*
Cut in half lengthwise

Fold in half across the length and sew short ends together
Sew a running stitch around one end of fabric and
Pull together and knot tightly
Turn right side out

Repeat for open end
Fill with stuffing, the tighter you stuff the tighter the
Pumpkin will finish
Pull the thread to gather and tie off, leaving a small hole.

Use the palm of your hand to roll the pumpkin around
To flatten and get to the shape you like
Take darning needle and string, begin at the bottom of
Pumpkin and stitch up into the hole in the pumpkin
Go down through the middle and out the bottom,
Repeat for all sections

Tie off and cut excess string
If you have some creases down the sides of the
Pumpkin gently push some extra filling in through
The top hole and work into each of the segments to
Make them fuller
Take cinnamon stick, cut half, cut 2 small fabric circle
(You can make the stars green or rust if you like contrast like I do)

And star shape cut slits in 1 circle and star shape
Push cinnamon stick through star shape and circle
Glue to top of pumpkin pushing stick into hole and
Pushing down circle and star
Glue circle to bottom end of pumpkin to cover stitches

*You can vary the size of pumpkins,
just make sure the fabric length is double the width
I hope you can use this tutorial to make lots of pumpkin pods and some nice, big
fat ones to scatter about your house. Use lots of different colors, white, black, green and rust.
Different fabrics can give you all kinds of looks. You can also make larger ones from 
muslin and follow the same instructions, just paint them orange (dilute craft paint with
water)or any other color you wish and then grubby them with 3tbs. coffee crystals in 1 c hot water, paint  it on your pumpkins and then rub with ice tea crystals. They absorb into the fabric for a good grubby look, cinnamon tends to stay on top and rubs away and is a little grittier. If you don't want to paint just get different colors of fabrics (wash to remove the sizing). Experiment on scraps of fabric/painted fabric and find the look you like. The grubby mix will get into the nooks and dimples of the pumpkins. You can spray a very light coat of spray adhesive to help your cinnamon/ice tea crystals stay on.   Have fun today!
Susan


Copyright The Primitive Pantry

As Promised, An Antique Style Turkey Tracks Quilt

Antique Turkey Tracks
To simplify an antique treasure, we adapted the original pieced quilt to make this a showcase for needle-turn appliqué.
getting started
What You Need:
 Punch up the color for added excitement and visual interest.
 Note From Me: The soft, muted colors can add to the vintage look, especially if you
 gave the fabrics a Rit Dye bath in Tan and rinsed and dried them in the dryer before cutting.
 I always wash my fabrics first to remove sizing from manufacturer. This quilt
 would look especially pretty with earth tone fabrics and neutrals in rust, greens, tans
 and golds, autumn colors.
2-1/2 yards of dark pink print for appliqués
1-1/2 yards of solid green for appliqués
2-1/4 yards of muslin for appliqué foundations and inner border
3-3/8 yards of light pink print for setting squares, setting triangles, corner triangles, and outer border
2/3 yard of solid pink for binding
5-1/8 yards of backing fabric
77 x 92 inches of quilt batting
Freezer paper
Finished quilt top: 70-1/2 x 85-3/8 inches Finished block: 10-1/2 inches square Quantities specified for 44/45-inch-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. All measurements include a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.
Instructions:
1. Download the free patterns for this project (Downloading requires Adobe Acrobat software).
You can click  Turkey Tracks Quilt Templates to directly download PDF file for patterns.
If you need to download Adobe click Adobe Reader X
2. To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order that follows. Cut all strips across the width of the fabric. The setting and corner triangles are cut larger than necessary; they will be trimmed before the borders are added. 
From dark pink print, cut 20 11-inch squares for appliqués
From solid green, cut 80 4 x 5-1/2-inch rectangles for appliqués
From muslin, cut 7 3 x 42-inch strips for inner border and 20 11-1/2-inch squares for appliqué foundations
From light pink print, cut 8 3-1/2 x 42-inch strips for outer border
4 16-1/2-inch squares, cutting each diagonally twice in an X for a total of 16 setting triangles (you'll have 2 leftover triangles)
12 11-inch squares for setting squares
2 9-inch squares, cutting each in half diagonally for a total of 4 corner triangles
From solid pink, cut 8 2-1/2 x 42-inch binding strips
From freezer paper, cut 20 11-1/2-inch squares and 80 4 x 5-1/2-inch rectangles
Cut and prepare
The following instructions are for a freezer-paper template, needle-turn appliqué method. The freezer-paper templates form a base around which the fabric is shaped.
(See Applique The Blocks, Step 4)
1. Fold a freezer-paper 11-1/2-inch square in half horizontally, making a rectangle (see Diagram 1). Fold the rectangle in half, making a 5-3/4-inch square. Staple the folds together in a corner to keep them stable.
2. Position the Pattern A template on the folded freezer paper as indicated (see Diagram 2). Tape the pattern securely to the folded freezer paper. (A dry-mount adhesive is recommended because it allows the pattern to be removed and reused.)
3. Cut the freezer paper along the pattern edges; do not add any seam allowances or extensions. Remove the pattern.
4. Carefully unfold the freezer-paper template. Position it, shiny side down, on the wrong side of a dark pink print 11-inch square.
5. Press the freezer-paper template in place with a hot, dry iron. Lift the iron after five seconds and check to be sure that the template has completely adhered to the fabric.
6. Cut out the fabric shape about 3/16-inch beyond the freezer-paper edges. Clip the inside curves or points on the appliqué shapes where necessary; do not clip outside curves.
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 to make a total of 20 dark pink print A shapes.
8. Trace Pattern B  80 times onto the paper side of the freezer paper, leaving at least 1/4 inch between tracings; do not add any seam allowances or extensions.
9. Position the freezer-paper templates, shiny sides down, on the wrong side of the solid green 4 ¥ 5-1/2-inch rectangles.
10. Press each freezer-paper template in place with a hot, dry iron. Lift the iron after five seconds and check to be sure that the template has completely adhered to the fabric.
11. Cut out the fabric shapes about 3/16 inch beyond the freezer-paper edges. Clip the inside curves or points on the appliqué shapes where necessary; do not clip outside curves.
APPLIQUE THE BLOCKS:
1. For one apliqué block you'll need one muslin 11-1/2-inch square appliqué foundation, one dark pink print A shape, and four solid green B shapes.
2. Fold the appliqué foundation in half diagonally in both directions and lightly finger-crease to create positioning guides for the appliqué pieces.
3. Pin each appliqué piece in place on the appliqué foundation square.
4. Using matching color thread, appliqué the Pattern B shapes to the muslin foundation, leaving a 1/2-inch opening in each. Slide the needle into the openings between the fabric shapes and freezer paper. Gently loosen the freezer-paper templates and pull them out. Stitch the openings closed.
5. Appliqué the Pattern A shape to the muslin foundation, leaving a 1/2-inch opening along one edge. Remove the freezer paper as before and stitch the opening closed. Gently press the appliquéd block from the back.
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to appliqué a total of 20 blocks. Trim the blocks to measure 11-inch square, including the seam allowances.
ASSEMBLE THE QUILT:
1. Lay out the 20 appliquéd blocks, the 12 light pink print setting squares, and 14 light pink print setting triangles in diagonal rows. Sew together the pieces in each row. Press the seam allowances in each row in one direction, alternating the direction with each row. Then join the rows. Press the seam allowances in one direction. Add the four light pink print corner triangles to complete the quilt center.
2. Trim the quilt center, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance beyond the block corners. The pieced quilt center should measure 60 x 74-7/8 inches, including the seam allowances.
add the borders
THESE  measurements for BORDER STRIPS are mathematically correct. Before cutting the strips, measure your quilt top and adjust the lengths of your strips as necessary.
1. Cut and piece the muslin 3 x 42-inch strips to make the following: 2 3 x 79-7/8-inch inner border strips and 2 3 x 60-inch inner border strips.
2. Sew the short inner border strips to the top and bottom edges of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the muslin border. Then add the long inner border strips to the side edges of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the muslin border.
3. Cut and piece the light pink print 3-1/2 x 42-inch strips to make the following: 2 3-1/2 x 85-7/80-inch outer border strips and 2 3-1/2 x 65-inch outer border strips.
4. Sew the short outer border strips to the top and bottom edges of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the light pink print border. Then add the long outer border strips to the side edges of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the light pink outer border.
Complete the Quilt
1. Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing.
2. Use the solid pink 2-1/2 x 42-inch strips to bind the quilt.


I hope you enjoy this quilt tutorial. If anyone makes this quilt, please email me a
photo. I'd love to see your finished quilt.  If you have any questions, please let me know.
Warm Regards,
Susan


This is a free pattern; Instructions and templates Copyright Better Homes and Gardens

I found this really fun tutorial in my stored documents while looking
for another file this morning. I cannot take credit for this tutorial,
and unfortunately I did not make a note of who the author is because
I was  not blogging then and never anticipated re-printing it. Also,
I do not have the color of the craft paint she used, just find one that
comes the closest to real caramels. I got my faux apples at Walmart,
they are red Empires and look so real!

Maybe you can enlarge the photo and see what it says down in the
left corner. You might have the magazine. NOTE: Please remember
that you should not re-print and sell this tutorial since it is most
likely copyrighted. This is just for YOUR PERSONAL USE ONLY.
FAUX CARAMEL APPLES 
Directions: 
1. Insert your popsicle sticks into the top of your Apples. If you'd like, you can pull out and add a dab glue. 
2. Place your Apple onto a large piece of Wax Paper. 
3. Mix approximately 1/2 the bottle of Mod Podge about 2-3 
teaspoons of your craft paint. (I don’t have the color that the author used, just pick a color that comes close to caramel).  
4. Stir with popsicle stick. 
You can add more if it's not opaque enough. 
Or adjust the color to your preferance. 
I wanted mine a little darker, so I added a few squeezes of a darker brown. 
5. Now with your plastic spoon, spoon colored Mod Podge over your Apples. 
Let it drip down the sides like real Caramel would. 
6. Repeat over all the Apples. 
You can let some of the Apple peek through 
near the bottom, this just makes it look truer. 
7. Sprinkle your Corn Cob litter on the top and lightly down the sides. 
8. Place your Apples onto a new piece of Wax Paper to dry OVERNIGHT! 
I checked mine in the morning to see if the glue had 
dried, then lay them on their sides for another half a day to dry the bottom. 
9. Once your Apples are completely dry, Spray them with your gloss 
clear sealer. This will give them that added shine they need to look 
like real Caramel Apples! 
10. Now, display them all together sitting on plate...just be careful that no one takes a bite! 
Susan